Sprayed Fabrics
Sprayed Fabrics (non-woven), for example spraying fabric onto moulds takes out the long and expensive line of processing inbetween. Lining, layering, covering and moulding this could be used in a wide variety of different processes, could be used in medical Textiles too, this could replace stitches.
Zero-wate Cutting
Zero-waste Cutting has been put on the catwalk but a fair few designers looking into the more environmentally friendly way of producing a garment with as little waste as possible afterwards.Its difficult to draw up a garment and work by hand to make as little waste as possible were-as by computer its alot easier and manageable. Zero waste pattern cutting could be found online for all to do, less waste means more efficiency.
Luminescence
Thermal radiated luminous products can help in a lot of places, to have any technical importance, a luminescent material must be easily excited by the appropriate excitation and must have high quantum efficiency, the ratio of the number of quanta absorbed to the number emitted. Luminescence can be used in medical textiles with x-rays and can go to another extreme and can be used underwater for scuba-divers to with a torch they are easily spotted underwater if anything were to happen/for their own protection. Also used for more everyday basic things like bike riders etc.
Aerogel
It is one of the worlds lightest sold materials, Aerogel is 99.98% air based, its ultra-strong and bendable and is a great material used in many different areas. The newest product to be produced using this is an Aerogel based blanket called Aeroclad. Its dust free and high temperature stable which therefore means it is two times better at insulating that current products on the market.
Textile Innovation - the personal conclusion.
My name is Emily Goold, I am currently studying a BA in Textile Design Year Two. I take a key interest in the development and sourcing of fibres and their properties which are worked from heavily in the Textile Industry. From the age of 13 at GCSE level I studied Textiles, the textiles I dealt with and studied was ‘old school’ so to speak, we learnt how to produce a garment from a pattern cut out and most importantly we studied material fibres thoroughly.
At great lengths we undertook experiments with materials, we learnt of their properties individually analysing a wide range of woven/non-woven and other varieties of fibres. It was a lengthy and sometimes tedious process which spun throughout my GCSE’s and into my A-levels.
At A-level the main book in which I studied from was Ros Hibbert's book on ‘Textile Innovation’, this book saw me through a lot of revision and managed me a B grade at A-level for Textiles.
Textiles was a coursework heavy subject, exams focused on an array of topics all varying. To know a fibres property is most important when it comes to your product/garment and experimental idea throughout a project. The drape, wash, properties and structure of a garment are all influenced by the fibre and its properties. For example seasons, tweed would not be used for a Summer material, or another example being you wouldn’t chose a cotton based fabric for a protective garment to shade a child of UV rays on the beach, the properties don’t allow the child to be protected.
My interests lie in the properties of a fibre. Textile Innovation was my first chosen ToP to go into so I was glad to get the chance to learn more. I believe you need to understand a materials properties and fibre qualities at a great length to be able to produce and manufacture a product that can all the key qualities, whether it be based on a season or its relationship to design, therefore its being produced to fit the criteria of fashion/interior/other.
The time spent re-capping what was learnt throughout GCSE and A-level but on a greater and more in-depth scale with Ros Hibbert was very much time well spent, my favourite lecture by far was one of the last lectures we had ‘Sustainability issues relating to the materials industry and life-cycles thinking (cradle to cradle)’. On Friday the 9th of November we looked into professional understanding of the Textile Production, there was a key focus on the productive properties.
Personally this lecture for me was insightful, I’ve learn about professional properties before but only really Gortex in great detail. Aerogel, Phosphorescence or through medical means for example. These are all prime examples of new properties I've learnt of through these lectures.
Anti-bacterial protective I thought was interesting, and based on the economy crisis at the moment and people struggling to get by money wise I thought this was a subject which could really be looked into a focused on. In the average household a family based on statistics (2011) can easily spend within a year round about £600 founds on some of the top branded products. Realistically if research and products were invented that lasted longer without germs and ware we could cut that by easily half. Underwear, bedding, and footwear are all everyday things which could be made more durable to wear and tear. With this prices could reduce themselves. A dishcloth as a prime example, how germ free is it? Yes it may be the cheap was to go about it but realistically how well are we protected from harmful germs when using one.
Communication and Interation - Seven
COMMUNICATION AND INTERACTION
Invisibility clothing and optical camouflage.
Chromatic Properties
- Certain dyes are able to change their colours in response to an external, such as a tent, water or UV light.
- Maggie Orph (2004) thermo-chronic can be achieved by conductive thread and a power source. Creating a textile display that changes colour.
- Colour change can signal when external temperatures are too high, fire fighters clothing and military also for band aids (hospital purposes)
Well-being factors
- East care, treatments that assist in the keeping of a garment clean and reduce time spent caring for it.
- Nano-technology and Teflon treatments input stain resistant qualities.
- Non-Iron and easy care in shirting and bed linen areas.
- Self-caring clothes.
Comfort and ease
- Comfort fit and ease of movement and crease recovery are important by stretch fibres.
- Lycra and XLA are elastic branded fibres.
- Power stretch for sportswear assists performance.
- Medical applications include assisting blood flow.
Aromatic
- Smells have the power to drive emotions and spur memories.
- Micro-encapsulation traps the scent particles in the fabric.
- Aromatherapy techniques can be used.
Antibacterial protection
- Fibres and finishes assist in protecting the health and safety.
- Also found in cosmetics and washing powder.
- Underwear, bedding, footwear, sports, medical and catering.
- Could reduce laundry.
- Naturally derived function is found in silver, tea tree and Aloe Vera plus crustation shells.
- Buy dishcloths but how much is it protecting me? (Invisible threat)
Insect Repelance
- Reduce harmful effects of insects such as dust mites, bedding.
- Young babies (immune systems)
- Anti-mosquito's (micro encapsulation or surface coating of an active insecticide)
Catalytic Clothing
- Assist in reducing the harmful effects of air pollution.
- Helen Storey, through the power of photo catalyst to break down air bound pollution.
- Story suggests ie. Denim –Oxford Street, if all people were wearing denim it would reduce pollution.
- Allergies, pollution synthetic clothing doesn't allow particles to be held in clothing.
Health and Cosmetic Benefits
- Treatments assist in moisturising skin and developing and driving active health benefits.
- Moisturising capsules are trapped onto the fibres surface via micro capsulation.
- Anti-Cellulite – benefit claims have been made by miss sixty and Victoria’s secret.
- Enprugnate clothing with medication.
Interactivity/Conductivity
- Essential element in interactive textiles.
- It can be imparted by the use of metal fibres and metal content coating or printing ink; the solution will depend on the products use and desired functionality.
- Gorix is a branded carbonised fibre with electric conductive properties used for heated car seats.
Power Sources
- Lightweight textiles compatible washable power sources are essential, unreliable.
- Flexible printed batteries that are powered by wear.
Soft interfaces
- Traditional computer technology and presented in hand ridged containers.
- Everyday objects (PHILLIPS) TV remote, joy stick made from textiles.
- Furniture can ‘memorise’ personal preferences and adapt accordingly (Bill Gates)
- Visually inspired – Special light resistance implanted in carpet to show their way around.
Motoring and Sport
- Allow real time interaction during activity.
- Direct feedback.
Professional Understanding of Textile production - Six
PROFESSIONAL UNDERSTANDING OF TEXTILE PRODUCTION
WHAT IS A TEXTILE
Functionality, Fabric/Yarn manufacture/use of product (take place)
PROTECTIVE PROPERTIES
- UV protection (important in young children) Australia real health hazard.
- Protect using sun protected factor material, dense weave/heavy weight = more protection.
- Light cotton knit, not protective.
- Applying finish, ceramic helps deflect polyester better than cotton, angles help deflect the sun away.
FIRE AND SPARK RESISTANT
- Finish applied to cotton, carpets (all tested for fire resistance)
- Firemen wear underwear made from wool (retains shape)
- Apply finish to natural fibres and metals.
- Shape memory springs (inbetween fibres) springs detect heat and stretch protecting for longer.
- Impact and abrasion, military, sports and upholstery.
- Corduroy and Kevlar – Motorbike knee cap protectors.
- Stab resistance uses a combination of aramid fibres and lamination (loose weave) coating mends itself – pulls strands of weave back together.
- Weatherproof, now in everyday clothing. Outdoor sports and equipment.
- Nano technology, fine fibres light construction, sweat passes out and rain does not pass through.
- Breathable laminate Gortex, lightweight and breathable.
MOISTURE MANAGEMENT
- Skin and body comfortable (past use PVC) left dry but no release of sweat particles.
- Keeps skin dry after physical activity Coolmax, layered membrane protection keeps skin dry and comfortable.
- Temperature regulation keeping it cool and warm at the same time. I.e. Athletes (cool down body before activity)
- Airogel – jacket contains trapped in chamber.
- Parathion Wax trapped in fibre/coating feel cool but heat from hand warms them.
- (Useful for skiing and lining on boots)
BUOYANCY AND INFLATABLES
- Inflatable textiles can save lives and protect (sudden impact)
- Air trapping areas can be interrogated into garments for sailing and riding.
- Cushioning motorcycles clothing can be automatically activated by sudden movement.
- Temporary inflatable constructions can be used for display and protection.
- Motorcyclists attach material to bike as they detach (activated through sudden movement)
SIGNALLING TEXTILES
- Reflective textiles, small glass particles into textiles 200m reflects light back (away) from clothing item, even underwater for diving clothing.
- Morpho butterfly (Amazon) wings are the inspiration for these fibres that take colour by light interference.
- Inside of car doors (reflecting pattern if door is opened on main road)
PHOSPHORESCENCE
- Trap and store energy from light and amidst its glow.
- Non-toxic and can be incorporated into most synthetic fibres.
- Electroluminescent uses trapped phosphor powder which is ‘excited’ by an electric current.
FIBRE OPTICS
- Plastic optical fibre carries pulses of light along its length, pushed into a small battery.
- Enables colour, light, pattern to blend with surroundings the wearers disappear. (Happy Potter Invisible cloak)
Innovative Fabric Construction - Five
INNOVATIVE FABRIC CONSTRUCTION
Drivers of innovation (what makes us want to do different)
Issues around sustainability
- Better use of raw materials (more expensive)
- Recyclability and regenerating.
Speed and efficiency
- Quick response, reduction of costs.
Customisation and individuality
- New ways of manufacturing, variety of functions.
Sprayed Fabrics (non-woven)
- Sprayed fibre onto mould takes out production.
- Have lots of different functions.
- Add long sleeves to short top.
- Lining, layering, covering, and moulding.
Rapid prototyping
- Use Ultraviolet beams to fuse layers of powdered thermoplastic into shape.
- End use, heart valves, jewellery etc.
Growing Fabrics
- Susan Lee – alternative to using petrol chemicals.
- Using types of sugar in VAT creates leathery material in non-woven form.
- Bio culture work investigates the use of microfibers to grow a piece for an exact shape.
3D Spacer Fabrics (knitted/woven)
- Only synthetics to be used
- Natural ventilation.
- Used in sports shoes, seating, mattresses, medical and protective products.
Oversized Stitches
- Create images stitches and plastic tubing.
Micro Sized Stitches
- Alpha Crome, Nano knitting, using tiny pins and wire to knit.
Biomimetrics
- Can mimic a living bio-system, Velcro was the first (based on a thistle)
- Speedos Fast Slim suits replicates the surface of shark’s skin.
- Self-cleaning waterproof textiles mimic the surface of a lotus leaf.
- The Stomatex product uses the principle of a leafs natural ability to transpire and keep dry.
Body Scanning
- Automatically measuring to create personalised clothing, pioneered by the army made to your requirements.
- A body form is created for three dimensional designs.
Moulded Fabrics
- (Synthetic content)
- (Natural fibre synthetic resistance)
- 2D fabric into 3D form
Magnetism i.e. Iron
- Patterning and designer function.
- Embedded magnetism into fabrics.
Precious Waste
Plastic bags into thread then used in recycled waste.
Zero Waste Cutting
- Engineer like a jigsaw puzzle.
- Design influenced by layout cutting (no waste)
- Holly McGullen – Designer uses this method.
Lazer and Water Jet cutting
- Synthetic, laser will seal the edge eliminate the fraying.
- Cotton, natural, burn/singe clean cut.
- Water Jets, (sensitive to high temp)
- Both technologies have a wide area of application (cutting, shaping, carving, and decorating)
Professional understanding of Textile Production - Four
PROFESSIONAL UNDERSTANDING OF TEXTILE PRODUCTION
Major natural fibre sources
Cotton, Flax, Silk and Wool.
Man-made cellulosic fibre sources
Wool and Bamboo, Cotton plants.
Major synthetic fibre sources
Polyester, Polyamide, Acrylic, stretch fibres.
Best fibre stem fibre (flax linen)
- Nettle, date.
Hemp
- Flax, Wool, Hemp were major until cotton came along.
- 50’s/60s growing was finished it was non-toxic.
Leaves
- Pineapple and bananas (West India)
Used for interiors, window blinds etc.
Seed hair fibres
- Less commercial.
- Before polyester there was Kupak (stuffing for toys) negative absorbent, good resistant.
Poplar trees (natural)
- Hard to produce, Germany harvest, used for stuffing for duvets and mattresses.
Coconut (coir)
- Abrasive, resistant to sea water, used for industrial rope.
Peat Fibre
- The plant remains in peat (produced in Scandinavia.)
- Good thermal properties, thermal, UV resistant, natural antiseptic properties, anti-static.
- Clothing, footwear blankets, expensive process.
Alginate (brown seaweed)
- Natural healing properties (antiseptic) material properties.
- Non-woven, blended with ie. Tencel which keep it soft, dressing for a wound (pale pink) forms a gel and protects from blood clotting.
- Soluble in hot water.
- Disappearing marks also.
Metal Fibres
- Aluminium, copper, and steel.
- Butchers wear knitted steel gloves.
- Garment made is silk and steel.
- Skiers, easier to find yourself under snow if you have high metal content.
Paper
- Renewable source pine trees, cotton, rice.
- High strength, light abrasion, recyclable and bio degradable.
Bio-Fibres
Dextrose from plants can create a fibre with an environmentally affective lifestyle.
Spider silk is one of the biologically engineered fibres. (Strongest fibre known to man)
V&A Spider Silk – 10 years production.
Milk Casein is another source of viscose type fibre.
Man-made synthetics
Polyethylene, PVC, all forms of synthetics from non-renewable oil-based resources.
All have properties of high strength, can be heatset.
Textile use and Variety - Three
TEXTILE USE AND VARIETY
- Clothing, transport, GEO medical, sports, domestic, interiors, medicine.
- Transport is the biggest volume of users for materials.
- Use, high abrasion, UV, distributing.
- Polyesters, some wool, Kevlar, glass fibres.
Agriculture
- Sheets over fields, warms soil, non-woven, deters insects also light and strong.
Geo
- Roads, buildings, construction, durability and long life materials, coastal erosion.
Medical
- Fabrics must be compatible with human tissue i.e. knitted heart valves, bandages, and feminine hygiene.
Architecture
- Temporary structure ie. tents, space, light, shade, barrier, high pulling strength (horizontal) abrasion resistance, good UV resistance, some plyable.
Sports
- Climbing ropes, tents, sleeping bags etc.
- Areas linked to military ie. weatherproofing.
- High density foams, impact protection.
Domestic
- Sheets, bed, pillows, fire retardant, compact, next to skin needs to be hygienic, soft, comfort, easily laudable.
Interiors
- Carpets, curtains, blinds, mats, natural and sometimes blended, elastic inserted too.
- Foams and fillings historically horsehair.
What is a Textile - Two
What is a Textile
- It's a flexible woven material constructed from a network of natural or artificial fibres.
- Natural Fibres much as pineapple, wood, paper-card.
- Synthetic Fibres such as Carbon and Glass.
- Polyester, Strength and also silk, heavy, bulky.
- OR featherweight or microscale – cobwebs.
- Functional, smart and interactive, smart, intelligent.
Construction:
- Weave or knit, yarn continues length of fibres.
- Spun yarn shorter, twisted to continue.
- S or Z form for twisting depending on the function.
Weave, Knit, Non-Woven
Industrial
Non-Woven (usually) ridged.
Clothing: Woven/Knitted – not so.
- Weave done in lower class areas such as Africa, India, Indonesia.
- Computer controlled looms average of 150cm roll of fabric.
Weft Warp Bias = Stretch
- Plain Weave, Twill and Satin.
Knitting:
One dimensional fabric from 2 dimensional. Less drape, more bulk.
- Weft knitting, crochet.
Warp Knitting
stockings, tights (fast and cheap)
Non-Woven
web structure and then tangle filaments disposable are non-woven as they are cheap.
- Kate Goldsworthy – Recycled Materials.
- Felt, made from wool or polyester glove.
- Set shapes and create insulation, sound etc.
PROCESS
Raw material producers
/
Yarn Manufacturing
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Fabric Manufacturing
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Product Manufacturing
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Distributors
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Retailers
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Customers
Textile Fibre - One
TEXTILE FIBRES
Cotton:
- Cotton is 45% of the world’s output, there is a loss in market share.
- 100% Cotton 0.5% the world’s fibre content, it is labour intense and expensive.
Flax: (Plant Group)
- Linen is produced from a plant.
- 1800/1900’s major sour, industrial.
- Certain things produced from flax ie. Towels, bed sheets, you can add viscose and polyester to these items.
Silk:
- 1700/1800 – silk is a luxury fibre, animal protein.
- From silk, extract – the process is done by dipping a cocoon in bath of chemicals which dissolve the thread and it is then spun off.
- Silk used in medical textiles, it allows tissue to grow over it and dissolves without harm.
- Used with racing cars and Bicycles.
- It's used with thermal underwear from silk worn or knitted.
- More texture.
Wool:
- It is the only fibre available up until 1800’s.
- Natural elasticity properties.
- Slow burning, used in fireman’s suits.
- Knitted, woven, non-woven.
Man-made Cellulose fibres:
- Made from wood and pine.
- Underwear, sportswear, hospital wear.
- Tencel, branded from this man made.
Polyster:
- All oil produced.
- Fully recyclable, melt down start again.
- Teijin (Japanese) recycle materials.
- Patagonia (website)
- 60% of world fibre production.
- Infinity flexible and versatile.
- Crease and emboss, laser cut etc. (permanent)
- Micro fibres and Nano fibres.
Polyamide:
- Silkier handle (Nylon)
- Swimwear, underwear, sports, UV resistance.
- KEVLAR – strong fibres, industrial tyres.
Comfort and Ease:
- Elastic and stretch fibres (Lycra)
- Medical Textiles, burns, sports (speedo)
Luxury Hair fibre:
- Cashmere and Angera.
- The animals it comes from are raised in the wild, captured and killed.
- Mongolia, goat, cashmere.
- Instead looking into natural malt, no impact on an animal’s life.
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