Textile Innovation
Sprayed Fabrics
Sprayed Fabrics (non-woven), for example spraying fabric onto moulds takes out the long and expensive line of processing inbetween. Lining, layering, covering and moulding this could be used in a wide variety of different processes, could be used in medical Textiles too, this could replace stitches.
Zero-wate Cutting
Zero-waste Cutting has been put on the catwalk but a fair few designers looking into the more environmentally friendly way of producing a garment with as little waste as possible afterwards.Its difficult to draw up a garment and work by hand to make as little waste as possible were-as by computer its alot easier and manageable. Zero waste pattern cutting could be found online for all to do, less waste means more efficiency.
Luminescence
Thermal radiated luminous products can help in a lot of places, to have any technical importance, a luminescent material must be easily excited by the appropriate excitation and must have high quantum efficiency, the ratio of the number of quanta absorbed to the number emitted. Luminescence can be used in medical textiles with x-rays and can go to another extreme and can be used underwater for scuba-divers to with a torch they are easily spotted underwater if anything were to happen/for their own protection. Also used for more everyday basic things like bike riders etc.
Aerogel
It is one of the worlds lightest sold materials, Aerogel is 99.98% air based, its ultra-strong and bendable and is a great material used in many different areas. The newest product to be produced using this is an Aerogel based blanket called Aeroclad. Its dust free and high temperature stable which therefore means it is two times better at insulating that current products on the market.
Textile Innovation - the personal conclusion.
My name is Emily Goold, I am currently studying a BA in Textile Design Year Two. I take a key interest in the development and sourcing of fibres and their properties which are worked from heavily in the Textile Industry. From the age of 13 at GCSE level I studied Textiles, the textiles I dealt with and studied was ‘old school’ so to speak, we learnt how to produce a garment from a pattern cut out and most importantly we studied material fibres thoroughly.
At great lengths we undertook experiments with materials, we learnt of their properties individually analysing a wide range of woven/non-woven and other varieties of fibres. It was a lengthy and sometimes tedious process which spun throughout my GCSE’s and into my A-levels.
At A-level the main book in which I studied from was Ros Hibbert's book on ‘Textile Innovation’, this book saw me through a lot of revision and managed me a B grade at A-level for Textiles.
Textiles was a coursework heavy subject, exams focused on an array of topics all varying. To know a fibres property is most important when it comes to your product/garment and experimental idea throughout a project. The drape, wash, properties and structure of a garment are all influenced by the fibre and its properties. For example seasons, tweed would not be used for a Summer material, or another example being you wouldn’t chose a cotton based fabric for a protective garment to shade a child of UV rays on the beach, the properties don’t allow the child to be protected.
My interests lie in the properties of a fibre. Textile Innovation was my first chosen ToP to go into so I was glad to get the chance to learn more. I believe you need to understand a materials properties and fibre qualities at a great length to be able to produce and manufacture a product that can all the key qualities, whether it be based on a season or its relationship to design, therefore its being produced to fit the criteria of fashion/interior/other.
The time spent re-capping what was learnt throughout GCSE and A-level but on a greater and more in-depth scale with Ros Hibbert was very much time well spent, my favourite lecture by far was one of the last lectures we had ‘Sustainability issues relating to the materials industry and life-cycles thinking (cradle to cradle)’. On Friday the 9th of November we looked into professional understanding of the Textile Production, there was a key focus on the productive properties.
Personally this lecture for me was insightful, I’ve learn about professional properties before but only really Gortex in great detail. Aerogel, Phosphorescence or through medical means for example. These are all prime examples of new properties I've learnt of through these lectures.
Anti-bacterial protective I thought was interesting, and based on the economy crisis at the moment and people struggling to get by money wise I thought this was a subject which could really be looked into a focused on. In the average household a family based on statistics (2011) can easily spend within a year round about £600 founds on some of the top branded products. Realistically if research and products were invented that lasted longer without germs and ware we could cut that by easily half. Underwear, bedding, and footwear are all everyday things which could be made more durable to wear and tear. With this prices could reduce themselves. A dishcloth as a prime example, how germ free is it? Yes it may be the cheap was to go about it but realistically how well are we protected from harmful germs when using one.
Communication and Interation - Seven
COMMUNICATION AND INTERACTION
Invisibility clothing and optical camouflage.
Chromatic Properties
- Certain dyes are able to change their colours in response to an external, such as a tent, water or UV light.
- Maggie Orph (2004) thermo-chronic can be achieved by conductive thread and a power source. Creating a textile display that changes colour.
- Colour change can signal when external temperatures are too high, fire fighters clothing and military also for band aids (hospital purposes)
Well-being factors
- East care, treatments that assist in the keeping of a garment clean and reduce time spent caring for it.
- Nano-technology and Teflon treatments input stain resistant qualities.
- Non-Iron and easy care in shirting and bed linen areas.
- Self-caring clothes.
Comfort and ease
- Comfort fit and ease of movement and crease recovery are important by stretch fibres.
- Lycra and XLA are elastic branded fibres.
- Power stretch for sportswear assists performance.
- Medical applications include assisting blood flow.
Aromatic
- Smells have the power to drive emotions and spur memories.
- Micro-encapsulation traps the scent particles in the fabric.
- Aromatherapy techniques can be used.
Antibacterial protection
- Fibres and finishes assist in protecting the health and safety.
- Also found in cosmetics and washing powder.
- Underwear, bedding, footwear, sports, medical and catering.
- Could reduce laundry.
- Naturally derived function is found in silver, tea tree and Aloe Vera plus crustation shells.
- Buy dishcloths but how much is it protecting me? (Invisible threat)
Insect Repelance
- Reduce harmful effects of insects such as dust mites, bedding.
- Young babies (immune systems)
- Anti-mosquito's (micro encapsulation or surface coating of an active insecticide)
Catalytic Clothing
- Assist in reducing the harmful effects of air pollution.
- Helen Storey, through the power of photo catalyst to break down air bound pollution.
- Story suggests ie. Denim –Oxford Street, if all people were wearing denim it would reduce pollution.
- Allergies, pollution synthetic clothing doesn't allow particles to be held in clothing.
Health and Cosmetic Benefits
- Treatments assist in moisturising skin and developing and driving active health benefits.
- Moisturising capsules are trapped onto the fibres surface via micro capsulation.
- Anti-Cellulite – benefit claims have been made by miss sixty and Victoria’s secret.
- Enprugnate clothing with medication.
Interactivity/Conductivity
- Essential element in interactive textiles.
- It can be imparted by the use of metal fibres and metal content coating or printing ink; the solution will depend on the products use and desired functionality.
- Gorix is a branded carbonised fibre with electric conductive properties used for heated car seats.
Power Sources
- Lightweight textiles compatible washable power sources are essential, unreliable.
- Flexible printed batteries that are powered by wear.
Soft interfaces
- Traditional computer technology and presented in hand ridged containers.
- Everyday objects (PHILLIPS) TV remote, joy stick made from textiles.
- Furniture can ‘memorise’ personal preferences and adapt accordingly (Bill Gates)
- Visually inspired – Special light resistance implanted in carpet to show their way around.
Motoring and Sport
- Allow real time interaction during activity.
- Direct feedback.
Professional Understanding of Textile production - Six
PROFESSIONAL UNDERSTANDING OF TEXTILE PRODUCTION
WHAT IS A TEXTILE
Functionality, Fabric/Yarn manufacture/use of product (take place)
PROTECTIVE PROPERTIES
- UV protection (important in young children) Australia real health hazard.
- Protect using sun protected factor material, dense weave/heavy weight = more protection.
- Light cotton knit, not protective.
- Applying finish, ceramic helps deflect polyester better than cotton, angles help deflect the sun away.
FIRE AND SPARK RESISTANT
- Finish applied to cotton, carpets (all tested for fire resistance)
- Firemen wear underwear made from wool (retains shape)
- Apply finish to natural fibres and metals.
- Shape memory springs (inbetween fibres) springs detect heat and stretch protecting for longer.
- Impact and abrasion, military, sports and upholstery.
- Corduroy and Kevlar – Motorbike knee cap protectors.
- Stab resistance uses a combination of aramid fibres and lamination (loose weave) coating mends itself – pulls strands of weave back together.
- Weatherproof, now in everyday clothing. Outdoor sports and equipment.
- Nano technology, fine fibres light construction, sweat passes out and rain does not pass through.
- Breathable laminate Gortex, lightweight and breathable.
MOISTURE MANAGEMENT
- Skin and body comfortable (past use PVC) left dry but no release of sweat particles.
- Keeps skin dry after physical activity Coolmax, layered membrane protection keeps skin dry and comfortable.
- Temperature regulation keeping it cool and warm at the same time. I.e. Athletes (cool down body before activity)
- Airogel – jacket contains trapped in chamber.
- Parathion Wax trapped in fibre/coating feel cool but heat from hand warms them.
- (Useful for skiing and lining on boots)
BUOYANCY AND INFLATABLES
- Inflatable textiles can save lives and protect (sudden impact)
- Air trapping areas can be interrogated into garments for sailing and riding.
- Cushioning motorcycles clothing can be automatically activated by sudden movement.
- Temporary inflatable constructions can be used for display and protection.
- Motorcyclists attach material to bike as they detach (activated through sudden movement)
SIGNALLING TEXTILES
- Reflective textiles, small glass particles into textiles 200m reflects light back (away) from clothing item, even underwater for diving clothing.
- Morpho butterfly (Amazon) wings are the inspiration for these fibres that take colour by light interference.
- Inside of car doors (reflecting pattern if door is opened on main road)
PHOSPHORESCENCE
- Trap and store energy from light and amidst its glow.
- Non-toxic and can be incorporated into most synthetic fibres.
- Electroluminescent uses trapped phosphor powder which is ‘excited’ by an electric current.
FIBRE OPTICS
- Plastic optical fibre carries pulses of light along its length, pushed into a small battery.
- Enables colour, light, pattern to blend with surroundings the wearers disappear. (Happy Potter Invisible cloak)
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